DIY kit assembly guide
About 2–3 hours of work plus 24 hours for the glue to cure. Keep your design's 3D model open while you build.
1.Tools & preparation
- You need: a drill/driver, 3 mm drill bit for pilot holes, 2–4 clamps, a tape measure, a damp cloth and a caulk gun (optional silicone).
- Work on a flat, clean surface. Lay out every panel and check them against the cut list in your design – each panel is labelled (Top, Bottom, Side, Front/Baffle, Back, Port wall, Brace).
- Dry-fit first: stand the box up without glue to confirm everything lines up before you start.
2.How the panels fit together
- Top and bottom cover the whole footprint.
- The two sides stand between top and bottom and run the full depth.
- Front (baffle) and back fit between the two sides.
- On slot-port boxes the panel at the port exit is shorter by the port opening; the opposite panel is full size.
3.Glue and screw the base
- Run a continuous bead of wood glue along the joint edge.
- Place the first side on the bottom panel at 90°, clamp it, drill 3 mm pilot holes every 10–12 cm, 9 mm in from the edge (centre of the 18 mm board).
- Drive the screws in snugly – do not over-tighten or the MDF can split. Wipe away squeezed-out glue.
- Repeat for the second side, then fit the back panel between the sides.
4.Port and braces
- Slot port: glue and screw the port wall(s) in place following your 3D model before the front and top go on – they are hard to reach afterwards.
- Folded (L-shaped) port: fit the long wall first, then the short fold wall, keeping the slot width even along its length.
- Glue any internal braces in their marked positions; they stiffen the box without blocking the driver or port.
5.Front baffle, top and sealing
- Double baffle: glue the two baffle layers together and clamp them flat for at least 30 minutes first.
- Fit the front baffle between the sides, then close the box with the top panel.
- Seal every inside joint with a bead of glue or silicone – the box must be airtight for accurate bass.
- Let the glue cure for 24 hours before finishing or mounting the subwoofer.
6.Terminal, finish and subwoofer
- Mount the terminal cup in the back panel cut-out with its screws and a ring of silicone; feed the pre-soldered wires inside.
- Carpet (optional): spray adhesive on the box and carpet, wait until tacky, then wrap it tight, trimming the speaker and port openings with a sharp knife.
- Connect the wires to the subwoofer (+ to +, – to –), set it in the baffle with its gasket, and tighten the screws evenly in a cross pattern.
- Double-check polarity and that nothing rattles. Enjoy your bass!